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Hydrosols, and How to Use Them!
All of us know of, or have heard of, essential oils, right? ... Mostly that they're terrible, but that's not what this post is about 😂 A great alternative to using essential oils, whether for the benefits of the natural botanical, or just the fragrance, is to use hydrosols or "floral waters". While essential oils are the oil part of a plant extract, hydrosols are the water part! The most commonly known one is definitely rosewater, but the actual type of rose that is shown to have soothing, healing properties is Rosa damascena, so if you're really looking for "pure rosewater" for your sensitive or easily irritated skin, search for a reputed source of Rosa damascena hydrosol ☺ Some ways to use hydrosols:
IN A DIY HYDRATING TONER : Simply fill a mist bottle with hydrosol, and add glycerin, sorbitol, or any other humectant of your choice, as per how dehydrated your skin feels. A good way of knowing if you've added too much is if it makes your skin feel sticky. If it evaporates off you're face, and feels matte almost immediately, you can add a tiny bit more.
Edit: u/Madky67 has kindly pointed out that any such mixture, with water and something else (in this case glycerin or sorbitol) DOES require added preservative to prevent microbial growth. Storage in the fridge can extend its life for a few days, is all. For further information about preservatives, check out DIYbeauty. The way I make my spray runs the risk of microbial growth for sure, because I rely on a preservative system in a concentrated hydrosol, which I dilute 4x AND add sorbitol to... and I don't even know Moksha's preservative system in the first place! It's definitely not ideal, and I take that risk because I'm personally fine with it! You may not be! This is just what I do! Make informed decisions! Although this DIY hydrating toner doesn't have any occlusive ingredients, it can be used in a "3-skin" method, where you spray your face wet, and pat in the moisture, adding another layer before the first one dries, and then immediately following with a moisturizing cream or oil. You can layer as much as needed! Great for dehydrated skin! 😆 A lot of Korean toners also use a high percentage of hydrosols to maximise the soothing effect (mugwort water, anyone?). I would NOT recommend spraying it throughout the day to "refresh" your skin, because a. If you have oily skin, you don't need extra layers of sticky sitting on top, and b. If you have dry skin and you need another layer, it needs to have an occlusive in it, like oil. Toner is for between steps! Come from bath, face dry? Spray toner! After tretinoin, face dry? Spray toner 😂 Wet your face with toner between steps for MAX hydration! I personally use it only twice max, or once even, but see what your skin likes 🥰❤ This toner works great to make your own "sheet masks" by soaking a cotton sheet mask blank (they're available online) or just tissues or cotton pads and placing them all over your face. Great for cooling sun exposed skin! Do NOT leave on till dry! Use it for five minutes, take it off while still wet, and moisturize immediately. I recommend making a weekly batch (smol bottle ☺) and storing it in the fridge. TBH, I don't use preservative, and I leave it out on my shelf till it's over, which is usually a couple weeks at least 🙂 but I can't recommend that, I can only say that I do the wrong thing 😅 Edit: Kind redditor u/Madky67 has let me know that liquid Germall plus is a broad spectrum preservative that works for such applications, and that they personally prefer using hydrosols that come with an added preservative system. Once anything is added, like glycerin, further preservative will be needed, since the formulation had changed. For further information about preservatives, check out DIYbeauty
ADD TO DIY FACE MASKS : Instead of just plain water, you can add a hydrosol! Smells nice! So fancy 😂 A go-to facemask that will suit all (yes, ALL! 😆) skin types, and calm down heat, and redness, and active acne is oats powder, a tiny bit of honey (or glycerin) and enough hydrosol to make a smooth, fluid mixture. Soothes skin down real fast 😌 Wash it off before it dries completely, to minimize rubbing and irritation!
MAKE YOUR OWN GEL : This is a bonus, for those who have been asking about how I make my own skincare 🥰❤ So, firstly, a gel is a mixture of water (or hydrosol 😉, or tea, or other water solution) blended with a GELLING AGENT. You've probably heard of a few: gelatin and agar agar are pretty common. My gelling agent of choice is xanthan gum, which is from a vegetable source (so it's vegan).
Although it's generally true that a moisturizer needs to have an occlusive component to truly block water loss from your skin, gelling agents are also usually film-forming, meaning they create a film or layer on your skin. For someone with very oily skin, or in very humid climate, this can sometimes be enough! (your sunscreen might be all you need.. Wear ya sunscreen! 😂). It's a simple matter of adding a tiny amount of xanthan gum powder to whatever you want to "gel" up, and blending it with a stick blender or mixie. Xanthan gum is available online from Amazon, and places that sell baking supplies. Add a tiny amount at a time till you reach the desired thickness... Because I have no exact measurements to help you with, ehehe 😅 You can store this gel in the fridge up to a week ("no preservatives"🥺) or add a preservative of your choice, according to the suppliers' recommended usage. I use Geogard ECT as preservative, which I purchased from the Moksha Lifestyle Products website. And I still store it in the fridge! Because I'm scared! 😂 But I've never had anything go bad, even after a month or two. For further information about preservatives and gelling agents, check out DIYbeauty. I purchase my hydrosols from the Moksha Lifetsyle Products website, where they sell them at 5x concentration, for ease of transport, at a flat rate of Rs. 151 each... Regardless of the botanical 😆😆😆 since, I suppose, it's a by-product of their essential oil business. Hydrosols I have used, and enjoyed from them: Rose, Vetiver, Yarrow, St. John's Wort, Lemongrass, Tea Tree, Neroli, Lavender, Helichrysum, Cypress, Turmeric... and probably some more I can't remember. Well, that's a long enough post, but if you want to try a hydrosol, do know that just good old black tea or green tea can be used instead! Hydrosols are just a way for me, personally, to enjoy various scents and soothing effects, without putting my skin through unnecessary stress just because I want to have variety in life 😂 Hope this was helpful! ❤
Alpha Musk Reviews (like a LOT of them, my nose is sore)
Disclaimer: There be swears here. TAT: I ordered the first set (order #3) March 9. Second set (order #4) was placed April 7. I didn’t ask Sarabeth to combine them as I didn’t want to bother her, but she took it upon herself to do that (she also did this for my first two orders, bless her). Label was printed April 26, order was shipped May 4, and arrived May 8. (Yes. I tried all of these today. Yes. My nose hurts. Yes. My husband almost definitely wants to sleep on the couch to avoid smelling me all night, but is way too lovely to say so.) Annoying part where I talk about myself: I found the indie scene in 2004 and have been an active part of the BPAL community since 2006, when, bless my heart, I was too young to legally have a PayPal account, so I sent a fellow BPAL forumite checks in the mail, and she sent me whatever I ordered via her. (We are still great friends, and she has the last check I sent her uncashed on her fridge like kindergarten art.) I like this anecdote because it is so cute and touching, but also it proves that I am stupid and impulsive. For a full list of notes I love and hate, see my first review post here. Didn’t want to clutter this up too much up top. Decided to put next to the scent name where it can be found on her Etsy – she gets more and more streamlined every time I visit but in case you don’t want to go leisurely investigating and you want to buy something I reviewed RIGHT GODDAMN NOW because if you are like me you will probably maybe do that. FUCKIN’ A finally let’s talk about important shit Smoky Vanilla Skyline (FS) – Creature Comforts: The Sweet charred sandalwood, gun smoke, dark spiced vanilla Thoughts in bottle: Mmmm. This is certainly a foodier vanilla, but not so sweet that I’m putting frosting in my Amazon Fresh cart. (I mean, it’s already in there, but I’m not, like, adding a tub.) Wet on skin: All the vanilla immediately hits the deck and the sandalwood goes OH WERE YOU LOOKING FOR ME BECAUSE GIRL I AM HEEERE! I also don’t know how I feel about the “gun smoke” note. Or maybe it’s the “spiced” part of the vanilla? It’s odd. After drydown: Much more balanced after a while. I can smell every component as listed, which always makes me narcissistically impressed with myself. The smell up close on my arm is wonderful – smoky, blackened sandalwood-vanilla – but the throw is MUCH sweeter, which is strange. If you’re a foody lover who wants to dip a toe into a darker scent, I think you would LOVE this. Pillow (FS) – P-R Permanent Collection a vanilla cotton touched by one of my favorite essential oils and blender, Peru balsam, a touch of ivory woods to ground the blend further. Thoughts in bottle: So Pillow is what originally spurred this set of orders. A friend who is also an indie lover got a bottle and let me try hers, and I was HOOKED. But I haven’t smelled it since February, so I’m excited to try it again. In the bottle it’s a creamy, shy vanilla. Wet on skin: DAMN I love this. I think it’s the peru balsam and woods that really do it for me. It keeps it from going cloying-sweet and gives it depth and dryness. It’s super comforting and ugh it’s just so NICE. After drydown: So good. I already said everything. If you like a relaxed vanilla, you need Pillow. Voice That Stinks of Death and Vanilla (FS) – The Lawless Collection A creamy vanilla bean, whipped cream musk, yellow vanilla accord, creepy cool iso e super Thoughts in bottle: I bought this entirely because of another Reddit review said that it was like smelling haunted whipped cream, so I have high hopes, because that is fucking hilarious. In the bottle, vanilla and iso e, pretty plainly. Wet on skin: ISO E, in all caps, plus a vanilla that is somehow definitively yellow. It’s good, but weird. After drydown: Still weird, but really growing on me. It’s a unique one, for sure, and if you’ve never smelled iso e super, this is a really approachable one, and really well-supported by the vanillas and musk. It’s lacking a depth to it that I usually like a scent to have, it’s incredibly ethereal, but I think it will layer with other things SO well to give them a touch of sweetness and zing. Also, it's for SURE haunted whipped cream, and that is still fucking hilarious. Apocalyptic Console (FS) – standalone listing 2020 quarantine edition, current ultimate comfort scent – Indian sandalwood, soft marshmallows, peru balsam, golden sands, vanilla bean Thoughts in bottle: This is what made me tack on a second order to the first one – it both sounded lovely and also made me think “well then I’ll have a weird kinda souvenir of how bonkers this shit is.” In the bottle, it’s a gorgeous vanilla. Wet on skin: Aw, shit, this is GREAT. A fucking gorgeous, GORGEOUS sandalwood vanilla. If you liked the base of BPAL Morocco but didn’t do well with the spiced aspect, you should try this. After drydown: You know what’s weird, is I think I would prefer this without the marshmallow (I KNOW, I’M SORRY, I’LL TURN IN MY MARSHMALLOW LOVER CARD). The sandalwood/peru balsam/vanilla/beautiful dry sandiness don’t need help, and the marshmallow is really really trying to help, but kind of getting in the way. Still gorgeous, though. Eventually the marshmallow cloud lifts and it’s like a beautiful mild sunny day. This is GOOD. Wake Up Alone (FS) – B-Sides 2020 a blend of iso e super with an indigo accord to make an inky liner scent, vodka on the rocks and some fine aerosol vavoom hairspray, and a very fine imported body musk and a silver musk from Saudi Arabia, I just imagine her skin scent so goddess a Royal like, a natural beauty, but only covered by some sharp vices, then there’s some notes representing a fine oversized overworn off the shoulder cashmere sweater and come worn in skin scented jean shorts. Inky, iso e super, vodka, ice, cashmere, skin worn in denim, silver musk, body musk. Thoughts in bottle: I love Amy Winehouse and I find her eternally fascinating. I’m not saying I wear a giant cat-eye and huge messy hair daily because of her, I’m just saying she did it, I saw it, and I’ve looked like this since I was a teenager. I love her music and her voice, and EVERYTHING about this scent description called to me. In the bottle I smell the iso e super right up top, and the vodka, and a really gorgeous floaty musk. Oh my god, 19-year-old me is SO pissed this wasn’t around to be her favorite fragrance. That’s fine though, she was a pesky bitch. Wet on skin: Hairspray and vodka and iso e BOOM right off my hand. I was hoping not to get much of the hairspray note but I weirdly like it a LOT – it smells like being onstage, drowned in stage lights, in full makeup and hair. There is a sharpness to this that’s really exciting rather than off-putting. I keep thinking I smell denim too, but I doubt my nose is that good. After drydown: One or both of these musks is goddamn divine. DIVINE. It’s a lot girlier of a scent than I usually reach for but you know what, I’m pretty sure Amy Winehouse smelled like this. It’s gritty-girly, dirty-pretty. I would have BATHED in this at age 19, when I was constantly out all night drinking and doing drugs and generally ruining my life and sinuses. It’s making me smile, because it reminds me of that colossal idiot. I don’t know how often I’ll reach for it to wear, but it’s striking me as a perfect scent to wear to something fancy, with a black cocktail dress and expensive shoes, and a huge cat-eye, and messy hair. MUCH LATER: Oh shit you know what this is reminding me of? Bath and Body Works Moonlight Path, which interestingly I spent the entirety of the early 2000s hating, and I would bet you I still hate – but this is like the version Bath and Body Works MEANT to make, the perfected, great-smelling version of that. I would bet they have a musk in common, but here it’s gorgeous and slinky and gritty and feminine and badass. MUCH, MUCH LATER: LOL it won’t leave. This is by far the longest-lasting Alpha Musk I’ve tried, with the exception of Red Musk Superior. It’s been 12 hours and I can still smell it very clearly, even though it was just one drop on the back of my hand. If you’re looking for a long-wearing scent, here she is. And just like me at 19, everyone in the room is trying to figure out how to get her to leave, but being nice about it because they like her, she’s just STILL drunk and nobody wants to be responsible for her drunk ass. Heavenly Amber Superior (FS) – standalone listing a single note imported amber superior from India. rich, absolutely heavenly, eyes roll in back of head divine Thoughts in bottle: hahaha I didn’t smell this in the bottle, I just drenched my left arm in it without smelling it first Wet on skin: Hm – this actually isn’t what I expected. It’s good, but it’s less chewy than I thought it would be. Sticky, certainly, but not chewy or creamy. It smells like if amber were a fruit. After drydown: God damn it I don’t like this. What? What is happening? Why? Why is it happening? I’m so mad? But at myself? Like this should be the amber of my dreams? But I don’t like it??? Why???? Fuck??????? I am betrayed??????????????????? After washing it off: I’m deeply saddened by this most heinous betrayal of my skin and/or my nose. It’s a syrupy, sticky amber, but not a fluffy or chewy one, and I wanted chewy, I guess? Man, I’m grumpy. I’m gonna have to let this one rest and try it again in a couple of weeks. Sex & Sweat Musk (FS) – 2 for $15 Musks a trio of red musks, a dash of superior, then something sweetly sloppy with a mad surge of wet sugary salty fluids over some skin/flesh musk combined. Thoughts in bottle: RED MUSK IS MY EVERYTHING. This is, excitingly, reminding me of some of my all-time favorites in the bottle (BPAL Elephantine Colossus, Devil’s Night, and Witch Dance. It’s that GOOD good red musk). This is so gonna make up for the Heavenly Amber Superior fiasco (I’m LEGIT MAD about that you guys) Wet on skin: Oh, so… here are the fluids. After drydown: Those fluids were hella touch and go for a second (almost went too sweet and at one point I had an “oh no is that too realistic?” moment), but this has settled into a happy afterglow. “Sweetly sloppy” is a bang-on descriptor for it – it smells like a really nice person whose house is messy but clean and totally lets their dogs on the couch, and has like a half dozen witchy tendencies but wouldn’t describe themselves as a witch because they don’t appropriate other people’s ways of life just to sound cooler on Instagram. I would hang OUT with that person. This probably has the largest throw of the musks I’ve tried in this order – with four scents on my arms, this is the one I smell as I’m typing – but it’s not too in-your-face. I think it’s probably the “drop of superior” that’s coming up to say hey. Flesh Musk (FS) – 2 for $15 Musks skin musk but danker. Just think salted skin lightly b.o’d but the best kind of enviable b.o you can’t stop sniffing. Thoughts in bottle: YES BITCH YES unf Wet on skin: A little salty, very clean (not like laundry). A tiny bit floral without smelling like flowers. SO CLEAN AND NICE AND I LOVE IT, I mean I REALLY love it, I’ve loved a lot of Sarabeth’s musks but this might be the ultimate one I’ve smelled so far. It’s like, freshly showered hot person. It’s the tiniest bit expensive-shampoo-ish, but not in a sharp or soapy way. FUCK it’s good. After drydown: Yes. This is a very sexy person who has just showered and is clean and rosy-cheeked and warm from a really nice shower. I get zero dankness from it, at least on me, and most of the salt that I smelled in the bottle is gone. I think this will age really well, and I also think I’m about to layer it with EVERYTHING I OWN. If you like musk, at all, of any kind, you will like this musk. Goth (FS) – Major Vibes This is a rich black musk (one of my fucking favorites) from India and a midnight vanilla (not to sweet but rich and Devine) Thoughts in bottle: I have tried Goth before, but around Decemberish of last year. All I remember is immediately putting a full size in my cart before passing the sample along to a perfume friend so she could also experience how great it is. In the bottle, it’s allll black musk. A really good, non-powdery, non-angry, really sexy black musk. Wet on skin: Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck that’s good. Pretty quickly the vanilla pops up to say hey, and it really isn’t a sweet or foody vanilla at all. Just rich and chewy without being creamy. After drydown: It’s so good, y’all. If you’re afraid of black musk, you should try this. It’s almost understated and skin-like, and mixes with the vanilla to create just the BEST scent. Not foody, not overpowering (though it does last a while, the throw isn’t massive), not headshoppy, just GREAT. If I hugged someone who smelled like this, I would immediately yell WHAT SCENT IS THAT, probably in their ear, in excitement. It reminds me a lot of BPAL’s Siberian Musk SN, which to date is my favorite musk of all time, but where Siberian Musk has a lot more in common with red musk, this is definitely black musk. And that little bit of vanilla fluff is heaven. THIS IS SO GOOD OKAY Fuzzy Cola Drops (FS) – The Fuzzies furry cozy musk with fizzy generic cola, a tiny bit of red musk, some sparkle and pheromones in the mix to make it just right. This is cola musk at its finest I love the fuzzy fizzy quality. Great to layer with anything you like mixed with your cola for example, bourbon blends, vanilla, cherry, or maybe rum scents! Thoughts in bottle: Pulled this out of the package and went “who ordered this?” Checked my Etsy orders and, uh, I did, apparently. I was surprised because I’m not much of one for soda scents, especially cola scents, and have no idea why out of all of the Fuzzies I went with this one (like – did I mean to order cream soda instead? WHO KNOWS WHAT HAPPENED BEFORE THE APOCALYPSE). In the bottle, it sure smells like cola. Wet on skin: Cola. A really nice one, though – a lot of cola scents I’ve tried have been Super Large Big Gulp COLA!!!!! IN YA FACE!!!! And this one is fairly quiet and, you know fuckin’ what, it really does smell fuzzy. I… I love it? It’s weirdly comforting. After drydown: Okay, so apparently pre-apocalypse me knew what was up, because this is truly the cola scent I’ve always wanted cola scents to be. It’s soft and DAMN IT THE ONLY WORD I CAN COME UP WITH IS “FUZZY” and that feels like cheating but it’s fuzzy! I love it. I now want to try Fuzzy Root Beer Drops and Fuzzy Cream Soda Drops. TF Black O (FS) – 2 for $15 Designer Dupes Inspired by Tom Ford Black Orchid. Notes of French jasmine, black truffle, ylang-ylang, black currant, bergamot, black orchid, patchouli, sandalwood, dark chocolate, incense, amber, vetiver, vanilla, and balsam. Thoughts in bottle: I don’t go for many mainstream fragrances, but when I do, I’m the MOST basic bitch you’ve ever met. Like I-really-love-Viktor-&-Rolf-Flowerbomb-level basic. So, yeah, I love Black Orchid. I have a whole little weird squirrel hoard of samples and tiny travel sizes of Black Orchid. In the bottle, her dupe is dead-on. Wet on skin: Ooh, weird! I smell a lot more jasmine in this than I do in TFBO. It’s a good jasmine, no indoles. Almost immediately the jasmine settles and the orchid takes over. This is oddly not as dark as TFBO, at least not yet. It’s like the daytime version, if the original was nighttime. They smell pretty much the same but feel different. Could be that I’ve never tried the Tom Ford in oil form – I found that one of her Lush dupes, despite smelling the same in the bottle as the original (Sikkim Girls), didn’t like my skin in oil form. After drydown: Hey girl hey. I know you. I think I might like the balance of this dupe almost more than I like the original – I’m sure Tom Ford uses high quality ingredients (they fuckin BETTER, for that price), but Sarabeth’s smell more like real things. This orchid is almost mind-blowingly good and realistic, big, chewy, beautiful. Well-grounded by a deep creamy conflagration of base notes (I can also definitely pick out vetiver in here, whereas I had no idea that was in Black Orchid). This is really stunning, and I’m glad I went for it! Motor Oil SN (FS) – Not available in her shop, but I begged. Thoughts in bottle: So Sarabeth doesn’t have this listed in the Oddities, but I saw another Reddit post where she did a tar series for someone, and one of the combinations was tar and motor oil, and I went GIMME GIMME GIMME. I asked her and she obliged! On my next order I’m going to ask if she’ll do a standalone 5ml of her gasoline as well. In the bottle, this is straight up motor oil – my dad is a mechanic and race car driver and gasoline/motor oil are super comfort scents for me, which I realize is weird. Some of y’all get me. P.S. This is definitely motor oil - not gasoline. Wet on skin: It both manages to smell 1. exactly like my dad getting home from a long day at the shop, and 2. like a FUCKING GREAT perfume. It’s a little sweet, almost a little floral, and has an after-scent high in the nose like recently poured hot asphalt. Like, for real, if this was sold in a boutique as a high-end fragrance, I’m not sure too many people would clock this as just a single note of motor oil. After drydown: Sweet fuckin’ jesus I love this. It’s developed further into its almost florally sweetness and has the same grip and bloom on my skin that my favorite musks have. I am really pissed at myself that I didn’t also beg for a 5ml of her gasoline note. I’m gonna go do that now. SHIT IT’S GOOD Only the Lonely (sample) – B-Sides 2020 a mature creamy vanilla blended with smooth redwoods paired with his mysterious black glasses that must be magic with all the ethereal next level timeless tracks he’s blessed us with. (It’s a deep dark ISO-e creating a sophisticated dynamic with the creamy vanilla redwoods). In the bottle: Oh fuck, word? This is beautiful, woodsy and vanillic without being sweet. Wet on skin: OH FUCK, WORD? What’s up, iso e? This is dope! After drydown: Y’all. This is WONDERFUL. Nothing overpowers anything else, the blending skill is crazy here. Not even the iso e is on top of everything else, which it usually does on my skin. Just a creamy woodsy zingy scent. It’s become a little sweeter but I LIKE it. Love Don’t Be Shy (sample) – 2 for $15 Designer Dupes tender orange blossom absolute, juicy honeysuckle and plush rose softly caressed by the sweetness of luscious marshmallow sugar accord, satisfying the craving pang of new love. A warm amber base lends a pulsing touch of sensuality, hinting the possibility of soon knowing another soul, inside and out. In the bottle: This is nice. Floral and warm. Wet on skin: Quite floral, but still warm, not sharp. It’s pretty nice but feels really Sephora-y. Which I guess makes sense because it’s a dupe of… a perfume that’s sold at Sephora. After drydown: Okay, I will say that the honeysuckle in this is stunning. It’s big and juicy and beautiful. And luckily, that’s 90% of the throw on this – just a big cloud of honeysuckle. Up close it’s honeysuckle, a big hit of orange blossom, a few petals of rose (surprising as rose is usually huge and obnoxious on me), and a wee bit of sugar. It’s really pretty. If you’re a honeysuckle lover, you want to try this. One of my favorite honeysuckle notes I’ve smelled in a long time. Fuzzy Strawberry Drops (sample) – The Fuzzies In the bottle: Strawberry, a good one. Not candy or powdery-plasticky. Wet on skin: An entire strawberry, green leaves and all. This is reminding me a lot of BPAL Strawberry Moon 2009, which to date is the only other strawberry scent I like. And it definitely does remind me of Fuzzy Cola Drops, but the fuzzy musk is more prominent here than it was in Cola. After drydown: To be clear, I’m definitely going to pass this on, but it was an interesting experience, and proved to me that I really like that fuzzy musk that’s the base of all of The Fuzzies. If you like strawberry scents, you should definitely consider this one. It’s very much not a candy or fake strawberry, and it’s really nice; I just know I won’t wear a strawberry scent, but if that’s your thing, you need this one. Isolation (sample) – Sprung2020’s She Brings the Rain cedarwood accord, vetiver, juniper touch, galangal root, black pepper, salted maple chocolate, incense saturated walls, dusty shelving carrying the past, dry orris, musky sandalwood, soulful resins In the bottle: Juniper and orris, a little vetiver, some herbs and woods. Totally unlike anything I usually go for, especially from Alpha Musk, but REALLY nice. Reminds me instantly of a BPAL but I can’t think of what (this happens often, my brain is a sieve). Wet on skin: Y’ALL. This is a sleeper for sure. I passed over it largely because I don’t usually vibe with juniper, orris, galangal, or pepper, but all mashed together over a resin base, and probably with some help from the salted maple chocolate (which I can’t actually smell but can certainly feel), this is doing delightful things. After drydown: Fuck you, orris. Fuck you right in your powdery face. If you like orris, or you don’t mind it, or it doesn’t turn into a powdery, violet-y mess on you, or if it does but that’s your jam – and you also like herbs and resins, you will love this. I hate orris, so, here we are. Cup of Tea Musk earl grey, jasmine tea, orris, sandalwood, mellow crisp musk, jasmine petals, bergamot, sunny vanilla and some honeysuckle and greens. Thoughts in bottle: White tea and honeysuckle. Very pretty. That orris better mind its fuckin’ business this time. Wet on skin: White tea and honeysuckle. Hm. I’m hoping some jasmine shows up at some point; I absolutely love jasmine tea. Not smelling any sandalwood, musk, or vanilla. Or bergamot, which is interesting, because bergamot is another note that likes to do OH DID YOU WANT TO SMELL ANYONE ELSE? on my skin, but it’s not doing that here (yet). After drydown: Ooh, there’s some jasmine! It’s a beautiful jasmine, not indolic at all. I still don’t get any bergamot, which is still weird. It’s very pretty and clean; if you like tea scents you’d like this a lot. I don’t, really, so for sure not my thing. Other samples were all things I have tried before and destashed – Bardot (stunning but too girly/floral for me), Sex and Bourbon Sweat (her bourbon/whiskey note has an undertone to it that reminds me exactly of a family vacation I didn’t enjoy as a kid, and while I love it in Monroe, I’m not as big of a fan when it’s at the forefront of the scent), Vulva Musk (fascinating but just a wee bit too peachy/girly for my taste), Holy Rose Water (not a rose fan but this is a pretty watery sweet rose, no powder or metal), 8.5 (not a fan of chocolate, but a really good and weird non-foody gourmand), and also Fuzzy Bubblegum Drops which I haven’t tried but also I hate the smell of bubblegum so I am really leery to try to open the vial and accidentally get it on my skin. With my luck, it would shatter and splash all over my favorite leggings and then I would smell like bubblegum forever and my life would never be the same. And these leggings were expensive. (Again, I thought I made it clear that I’m basic as fuck.) Keepers: Apocalyptic Console, Flesh Musk, Goth, Motor Oil, Only the Lonely, Pillow, Sex & Sweat Musk, TF Black O Need to retry after resting/not sure of yet: Fuzzy Cola Drops, Heavenly Amber Superior (if I can get past the betrayal), Wake Up Alone, Voice That Stinks of Death and Vanilla Please go away to a person that loves you: 8.5, Bardot, Cup of Tea Musk, Fuzzy Strawberry Drops, Fuzzy Bubblegum Drops, Holy Rose Water, Isolation, Love Don’t Be Shy, Sex & Bourbon Sweat, Smoky Vanilla Skyline, Vulva Musk P.S. I also have the following scents from previous orders, if anyone cares to hear why I loved them enough to keep them (I am a really, really ruthless destasher, because I almost exclusively use perfume sales to fund buying more perfume): Monroe, Cotton Candy SN, Red Musk Superior (fair warning: if you don’t love red musk, you probably will really not like this, and it doesn’t wash off easily), and Warm Vanilla Bean Noel.
[SELL] [US/US] various perfumes, mostly samples/decants, xpost Sunday Swaps
PBM (purchased by me directly from brand) or RIS (received in swap/bought here)
I'm going to charge all orders $4 for shipping (unless your order is strangely heavy), this also covers G&S fees
Paypal please, either
I can always send verification photos
some labels might be stained/worn/etc, please ask if you care
All have been tested, samples are hard to estimate what's left but I try to not any that are less than half full, please ask if you care
The Stuff • Alkemia Book of Shadows, RIS, 1ml (heavy parchment paper, ancient iron oak gall ink, crumbling leather bindings, and wafts of rare incenses)$1.50 • Alkemia Love Is Nearer To Death, RIS, 1ml (sambac jasmine, spicy carnation, dark orchids, cananga flower, lotus blossoms, tuberose, vanilla orchid, neroli, spiced amber, cacao dusted labdanum)$1 (less than half)
• Alkemia Season of the Witch, RIS, 1ml (black pine pitch, dark myrrh, aged black amber, ritual Samhain incense with Black Cavendish and Perique tobaccos, tsuga, bay leaves, black cardamon)$1.50 (sloppy label) • Arcana This Is Not The Carnival, RIS, just below top of label/5ml (raspberry flavored cotton candy, bubblegum, vanilla taffy, rain, and gin martinis sipped from a silver flask + pistachio, sugared coconut and spring tuberose)$12 • Astrid Merci No.14 decant, RIS, 1ml (toasted almond and marshmallow cream)$1 • Blooddrop Les Lumieres de Paris, RIS, ~1ml (bubbling champagne, soft lavender maillette, green cognac, and velvet white rose)$1 • BPAL Goblin, RIS, BPAL imp (black coconut, gnarly patchouli, and sweet benzoin)$1.50
BPAL Hagoromo-No-Taki hair gloss decant, RIS, ~5ml (Tahitian vanilla, coconut cream, orris root, sugar cane, and white sandalwood)$1
• BPAL Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, RIS, BPAL imp (vanilla, two ambers, sweet pea and white sandalwood)$1
BPAL Santo Domingo, RIS, BPAL imp (exotic, sultry blend of tobacco leaf, bay rum and heady Caribbean blossoms)$1
• BPAL Sed Non Satiata, RIS, BPAL imp (myrrh, red patchouli, cognac, honey, and tuberose and geranium in a breathy, panting veil over the darkest body musk)$1 • Conjure Oils Denim and Curls, RIS, Ajevie slink (pink musk, candied rose, tonka bean and aged vanilla resin)$1.50
Death & Floral 11 Days in December, RIS, D&F dropper rice bran (the scent of an abandoned car, wet footprints leading to a path, An exotic mystery trail of citrus, spice, dust and oil)$1.50
Death & Floral Before You Were Dust, RIS, D&F dropper rice bran (herbal bay leaves and black tea blended with sweet tobacco, the smell of a deep belly laugh, an old wooden cane, a worn out hat and a cracked leather jacket)$1.50
• Death & Floral Dusty Stacks of Vinyl..., RIS, D&F dropper rice bran (Arabian sandalwood, dusty aged paper, cedar, warm stagnant air, patchouli, Vetiver, amryris, musk)$1.50 • Death & Floral Nothing Rusts... rollerball decant, RIS, ~2-3ml no label (pink cactus flowers and sweet grass with notes of warm rain and woody dry vanilla)$2 • Death & Floral The Blues Are All The Same, RIS, D&F dropper rice gran (smooth vanilla Cognac, aged barrel wood, and sticky honey)* **$1.50 • Death & Floral The Sweater We Buried..., RIS, D&F dropper rice bran (three different vanillas, resinous ambers, Arabian sandalwood, a soft cashmere sweater)$1.50 • Death & Floral We Stopped For Coffee..., RIS, D&F dropper rice bran (roasted Colombian coffee beans, giant looming red-wood trees in a shady and damp forest with cardamon and cinnamon)$1.50 • Kyse Cocco alla Vaniglia, RIS, 1ml (coconut pulp CO2, vanilla beans, organic tonka bean butter, and cream)$1 • LouLou's SultanaLush dupe, RIS, 5/8 dram (Egyptian jasmine, Amazon lily, juicy citrus, roses petals, olibanum, & white musk)$1 • Nui Cobalt Buzzed, RIS, 1ml (hearty spiced mead and honey bourbon spilled over sturdy red mahogany, maple wood, simmering brown sugar, and a crush of crystallized ginger)$1.50 • Nui Cobalt Indie Mood: Liv, RIS, 1ml (earthy patchouli, deep incense, wild blackcurrants, and the lingering smoke of a maplewood fire)$1 (label is pretty ratty) • Poesie Beth, RIS, 2ml (buttery vanilla sugar cookies, Earl Grey tea sweetened with wildflower honey, radiant white musk)$2 • Solstice Scents Lavender Vanilla glacé decant, RIS, ~5ml (lavender essential oil & sweet creamy vanilla)$2 • Sucreabeille Pride decant, RIS, 1ml (honeycomb, Indian sandalwood, Egyptian musk, coumarin, champagne bubbles)$1 • Stereoplasm First Bloom decant, RIS, 0.5ml (peach and apricot blossoms, french musk, and sparkling cream soda)$1 FWP • these are ~5yr old samples I have from a natural brand, I think they're all essential oils + carrier oil so they're pretty light (or haven't aged great, I can't remember how light they were when I bought them but they're not rancid), PBM • these are ~half full or less, you can take all or one or whatever • https://lurkmade.com/ <--- you can check them out if you like • Lurk RSW005, PBM, 1ml (sandalwood, rose, a crisp citrus finish) • Lurk PRJV1, PBM, 1ml (jasmine, rose, petitgrain) • Lurk AS01, PBM, 1ml (cedarwood, tuberose, sweet rose, a hint of spice) • Lurk BS003, PBM, 1ml, no label (dry woods, crisp citrus, sweet bergamot) • Lurk TBPV1, PBM, 1ml, no label (sultry florals blend seamlessly into a base of resinous black pepper)
FIRST FRAGRANCE IMPRESSIONS: Cyril R. Salter French Vetiver Shaving Cream & compared to Catie's Bubbles' 322
Obligatory SOTD pic:https://i.imgur.com/YdSiDco.jpg CREAM: Cyril R. Salter | French Vetiver BRUSH: Island Bladeworks | Stoya | Elite Razor Manchurian RAZOR: Gem Damaskeene (1914-1915) | Gem Jr. Elite "Ivory" Handle (ca.1906) | Gem PTFE POST: Catie's Bubbles | Revolution | Before & After Shave FRAGRANCE: Talbot Shaving | Authors Ridge EdT About a week ago, amidst one of my SOTD posts in which I was singing the praises of c_bubbles' Haitian vetiver-loaded 322, NeedsMoreMenthol challenged me to give Cyril R. Salter's French Vetiver a try. While he admitted he'd never experienced 322, he owns a vial of Haitian vetiver essential oil and found that CRS French Vetiver was "the closest [he had] smelled to the pure EO." Intrigued, I picked up a tub. I've stated on several occasions that 322 is my all-time favorite fragrance. I'm so enamored with this fragrance that I have back-ups of the parfum extrait. Given this, any competitor starts well behind the line in any endeavor to strum that olfactory chord for me. Unlike NeedsMoreMenthol, I do not own a Haitian vetiver EO sample, so I can't make the direct comparison as to the accuracy of either 322 or CRS to the "pure" EO. Rather, this is intended to impart my impression of CRS French Vetiver to 322. French Vetiver opens with the expected earthy grassiness anticipated with any singularly vetiver fragrance. At least initially, the earthiness is clean, if that makes any sense. As opposed to being damp, dark, and swampy, it's more closely related to dry earth that's free of any decaying vegetation other than perhaps oak leaves. It then moves to even more grassiness and less earth to the point of smelling like Bermuda hay and warm unshelled peanuts in burlap. As the shave progresses, the fragrance has a brief transitional element that is reminiscent of sun-baked dirt emanating chalky minerals and salt. Holding onto this salt, the fragrance abruptly becomes wet, and even dank, with impressions of thick green moss and smoky seawater-rich tarry black peat. To a vetiver head, you're sold, right? No? Well, then now you're getting the idea of how Haitian vetiver deviates a bit from other varieties. CRS's French Vetiver doesn't dress this up, and as a result, some will find this repulsive. In much that same way a Highland single-malt scotch aficionado may rebuff an Islay. So how does French Vetiver compare to 322? In a word, marginally. But in all fairness, it's an apples-to-oranges comparison. 322 never claimed to be singularly Haitian vetiver. I've stated previously that with 322 it was love at first whiff, but I would not be surprised that the enormous Haitian vetiver presence immediately turns off some users that may have otherwise come to appreciate it if not love it. (Again, forgive the scotch comparison, but the same thing often occurs in this realm. Subsequent "tastes" uncover previously obscured elements as the subject develops a taste for something they'd previously detested. Hence "acquired taste".) Compared to French Vetiver, 322 is darker right off the bat. It's also sharper on the top end and carries a distinct bloody-plum richness evocative of Merlot or Syrah wine which is no doubt the perfumer's incorporation of black currant and patchouli. 322 also has a woodiness that has a resinous element making it less distinctly oak and more cedar. This aspect almost completely chokes out the warm peanut, salt, and dusty burlap vibe I detected in the French Vetiver. As complex as my French Vetiver description may be, 322 has much more dynamic range and depth, although as I alluded earlier, a patient nose may be necessary. I warned you earlier that I'm biased in favor of 322 given my unnatural love affair with it. The reality is I don't dislike CRS French Vetiver at all, but even if I wasn't intentionally making a mental comparison, just using it made me long for 322 as it imparted just enough common elements to remind me of what it was missing. One more very important disclaimer despite the glaring one that I have a long-standing experience with 322, is that I use the extrait routinely. I would dare say that this alone taints my brain's interpretation of the soap because the extrait is a far better medium. I suspect that had I never used the extrait I most likely would not have been able to extract so much, even from the 322 soap. As to the performance, Cyril R. Salter is a cream and it performs similarly to Art of Shaving's products, and that is to say it's a solid performer. As per my usual pattern, I test lathered with a couple different knots the evening before putting it into use. The lather building is fool-proof as far as creams go. It's fairly easy to break the lather with over watering as well as super hot water. When optimized, it yields a dense, creamy lather. If you get any fluffiness, you've over watered. Slickness, both primary and residual, are both good, but nowhere near the artisan pack leaders. The post shave is moisturizing, but again, nothing to which I'm accustomed in the artisan realm. As specifically compared to Catie's Bubble's Luxury Cream, CRS quite simply can't even compete. I appreciate NeedsMoreMenthol's recommendation in that it introduced me to another product I might otherwise never have tried and it ultimately satisfied a curiosity. I you hope find my observations useful. Disclaimer: I purchased this 5.8 oz Cyril R. Salter French Vetiver Shaving Cream from an Amazon seller under Amazon Prime parameters for $17.99 shipped.
I’ve compiled a list of everything you’ll most likely need when venturing into DIY Fragrance. Keep in mind that not every site is meant for the individual who wants to make a perfume from essential oils at their local grocery store. (Not judging, you do you.) Some companies in this list will require you to either have a business license, reseller’s permit, or permits for alcohol. Chances are you can find much of the labware you will need for making perfume on Amazon, but having the aforementioned permits will help you cut out the middle man and save some money. I will add to this list as I can recall what information proved helpful for me when I first started learning about perfume. I would also encourage you to read books by Mandy Aftel, Luca Turin, Jean-Claude Ellena, and Chandler Burr. Happy Perfuming!
FIRST FRAGRANCE IMPRESSIONS: Cyril R. Salter French Vetiver Shaving Cream & compared to Catie's Bubbles' 322
Obligatory SOTD pic:https://i.imgur.com/YdSiDco.jpg CREAM: Cyril R. Salter | French Vetiver BRUSH: Island Bladeworks | Stoya | Elite Razor Manchurian RAZOR: Gem Damaskeene (1914-1915) | Gem Jr. Elite "Ivory" Handle (ca.1906) | Gem PTFE POST: Catie's Bubbles | Revolution | Before & After Shave FRAGRANCE: Talbot Shaving | Authors Ridge EdT About a week ago, amidst one of my SOTD posts in which I was singing the praises of c_bubbles' Haitian vetiver-loaded 322, NeedsMoreMenthol challenged me to give Cyril R. Salter's French Vetiver a try. While he admitted he'd never experienced 322, he owns a vial of Haitian vetiver essential oil and found that CRS French Vetiver was "the closest [he had] smelled to the pure EO." Intrigued, I picked up a tub. I've stated on several occasions that 322 is my all-time favorite fragrance. I'm so enamored with this fragrance that I have back-ups of the parfum extrait. Given this, any competitor starts well behind the line in any endeavor to strum that olfactory chord for me. Unlike NeedsMoreMenthol, I do not own a Haitian vetiver EO sample, so I can't make the direct comparison as to the accuracy of either 322 or CRS to the "pure" EO. Rather, this is intended to impart my impression of CRS French Vetiver to 322. French Vetiver opens with the expected earthy grassiness anticipated with any singularly vetiver fragrance. At least initially, the earthiness is clean, if that makes any sense. As opposed to being damp, dark, and swampy, it's more closely related to dry earth that's free of any decaying vegetation other than perhaps oak leaves. It then moves to even more grassiness and less earth to the point of smelling like Bermuda hay and warm unshelled peanuts in burlap. As the shave progresses, the fragrance has a brief transitional element that is reminiscent of sun-baked dirt emanating chalky minerals and salt. Holding onto this salt, the fragrance abruptly becomes wet, and even dank, with impressions of thick green moss and smoky seawater-rich tarry black peat. To a vetiver head, you're sold, right? No? Well, then now you're getting the idea of how Haitian vetiver deviates a bit from other varieties. CRS's French Vetiver doesn't dress this up, and as a result, some will find this repulsive. In much that same way a Highland single-malt scotch aficionado may rebuff an Islay. So how does French Vetiver compare to 322? In a word, marginally. But in all fairness, it's an apples-to-oranges comparison. 322 never claimed to be singularly Haitian vetiver. I've stated previously that with 322 it was love at first whiff, but I would not be surprised that the enormous Haitian vetiver presence immediately turns off some users that may have otherwise come to appreciate it if not love it. (Again, forgive the scotch comparison, but the same thing often occurs in this realm. Subsequent "tastes" uncover previously obscured elements as the subject develops a taste for something they'd previously detested. Hence "acquired taste".) Compared to French Vetiver, 322 is darker right off the bat. It's also sharper on the top end and carries a distinct bloody-plum richness evocative of Merlot or Syrah wine which is no doubt the perfumer's incorporation of black currant and patchouli. 322 also has a woodiness that has a resinous element making it less distinctly oak and more cedar. This aspect almost completely chokes out the warm peanut, salt, and dusty burlap vibe I detected in the French Vetiver. As complex as my French Vetiver description may be, 322 has much more dynamic range and depth, although as I alluded earlier, a patient nose may be necessary. I warned you earlier that I'm biased in favor of 322 given my unnatural love affair with it. The reality is I don't dislike CRS French Vetiver at all, but even if I wasn't intentionally making a mental comparison, just using it made me long for 322 as it imparted just enough common elements to remind me of what it was missing. One more very important disclaimer despite the glaring one that I have a long-standing experience with 322, is that I use the extrait routinely. I would dare say that this alone taints my brain's interpretation of the soap because the extrait is a far better medium. I suspect that had I never used the extrait I most likely would not have been able to extract so much, even from the 322 soap. As to the performance, Cyril R. Salter is a cream and it performs similarly to Art of Shaving's products, and that is to say it's a solid performer. As per my usual pattern, I test lathered with a couple different knots the evening before putting it into use. The lather building is fool-proof as far as creams go. It's fairly easy to break the lather with over watering as well as super hot water. When optimized, it yields a dense, creamy lather. If you get any fluffiness, you've over watered. Slickness, both primary and residual, are both good, but nowhere near the artisan pack leaders. The post shave is moisturizing, but again, nothing to which I'm accustomed in the artisan realm. As specifically compared to Catie's Bubble's Luxury Cream, CRS quite simply can't even compete. I appreciate NeedsMoreMenthol's recommendation in that it introduced me to another product I might otherwise never have tried and it ultimately satisfied a curiosity. I you hope find my observations useful. Disclaimer: I purchased this 5.8 oz Cyril R. Salter French Vetiver Shaving Cream from an Amazon seller under Amazon Prime parameters for $17.99 shipped.
[SELL/SWAP][US ONLY][PERFUME/MAKEUP/BATH & BODY] – TONS of brands! Many rares and discontinueds! HUGE BLACK FRIDAY SALE! Massive List of $1.00 Perfume Samples and FREE SHIPPING at $25.00!
After A MONTH of not having access to my reddit account (broke my laptop, password saved on it, didn’t know password, no access to the email account used to set up my reddit, etc…) I have my laptop back and I’m back on reddit!!! I’ve missed yall and I’ve missed feeding my second-hand habit. So it’s big sale time :D
THE DETAILS
Shipping is $5.00 and to the US only. However – I WILL PAY YOUR SHIPPING IF YOU SPEND $25.00 IN PRODUCTS!
I accept Paypal, Goods & Services only. If you pay by Friends & Family, I will have to refund and you will need to resend Goods & Services.
All items are first come, first serve. Payment is expected within 24 hours of initial comment. I am unable to hold items longer than that.
Please COMMENT BELOW if you are interested in something, in the interest of fairness. DO NOT message me! Also, I DO NOT use the chat function so don’t waste your time there. I will message you to work out payment details after you’ve finished shopping.
I will ship by Saturday, December 7 at the latest. Your package may go out sooner than that, but it may not go out until then due to my work schedule. I will upload tracking numbers in the Paypal transaction and Paypal will email you your tracking information.
A time-honored union of creamy jasmine and rich Madagascan vanilla orchid draws out the sweet softness of Brazilian tonka. Beautifully balanced oriental notes of musk, amber, patchouli, and brown sugar form the distinguished wood base of this utterly sublime scent.
Little Book Eater
Charlie & the Chocolate Factory
10 ml full size
2-3 uses
$8.00
Blueberry, Caramel, Milk and Dark Chocolate, Butter, Brown Sugar
French Almond essence, Almond Paste, Pistachio essence, Tonka Bean, NA Crimson Absolute, eNVie saphir and White Amber Absolute
NAVA
French Vanilla Cafe Creme
1 ml decant
1 use
$3.00
French Vanilla Absolute, Italian Espresso Coffee Bean CO2, NA Coffee Bean Accord, Cream accord infused Vanilla Crystalline Cream accord, Butter accord, Caramel Accord, French Vanilla Bean Absolute, Vanilla Milk accord, Vanilla Orchid, Crystalline Absolute and Egyptian Sugar
NAVA
Malingo
1 ml decant
1 use
$3.00
Spices of Clove, Cinnamon and Lime Zest in a vat of Vanilla beans and Musk.
NAVA
Pumpkin #5
1 ml decant
1 use
$3.00
Pumpkin Puree with fresh Blueberries, Pumpkin Cheesecake accord, Bastet Amber, Egyptian Musk, White Cinnamon and White Sandalwood.
NAVA
Raspberry Crystalline Cheesecake
1 ml decant
1 use
$3.00
Black Raspberry Seeds, Raspberry Oil Absolute, Vanilla Cheesecake Accord, Vanilla Cream, Lime Zest Absolute, Lemon Absolute, Crystalline (Vanilla from the Studio Limited) and a drop of Bastet's Amber Pure.
White Ghost Chocolate, Raw Sugar Cane, Chocolate shavings, Bastet's Ice Cream Accord, a drop of Black Cedar, a drop of ICONS: Egyptian Oudh, a stir of Cemetery Snow and a touch of Crystalline Absolute and one drop of black peppercorn.
NAVA
Summer Fig Creme
1 ml decant
1 use
$3.00
Black Fig, French Fig, Genova Fig infused Vanilla Crystalline Cream accord, Butter accord, Caramel Accord, French Vanilla Bean Absolute, Vanilla Milk accord, Vanilla Orchid, Crystalline Absolute and Egyptian Sugar
NAVA
Victorian Candy Cane Crystalline
1 ml decant
2-3 uses
$3.00
Red and white striped candy cane created with the essence of pure Peppermint bark, Vanilla Cream, Vanilla Dust, a touch of Strawberry seed and a heavy hand of SL Crystalline Vanilla Absolute.
Poesie
French Kiss
2 ml dram
1 use
$6.00
marshmallowy vanilla meringue swirled with blueberry jam
Poesie
Hungry Ghost
2 ml dram
1 use
$6.00
toasty marshmallow, gooey chocolate, buttery graham cracker
Poesie
Infamous
1 ml sample
1 use
$3.00
luscious white cake layered with sticky marshmallow creme and topped with mounds of vanilla frosting
Poesie
Madar
1.15 ml sample
1 use
$3.00
creamy Basmati rice pudding flavored with orange flower water, saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, dried rose petals, sugared pistachios
Take a lacy brown sugar cookie, the kind which cools off almost like a brittle, dunk it in whiskey.
Possets
Passion
5 ml full size
2 uses
$15.00
A supersaturated chocolate solution of chocolated chocolate with a smooth chocolate interior and a chocolate shell covered in chocolate sauce and floating in a puddle of chocolate.
Sixteen92
Pyromancy
2 ml sample
Full
$3.00
Green cardamom, fireplace embers, agarwood, smoked tea, white tobacco, hearth smoke.
Smell Bent
Gypsy
4 ml spray bottle
NEW
$4.00
apricot, almond, patchouli essence, orris, vanilla absolute and sandalwood.
Sucreabeille
Acai Tree (oil)
1 dram
1 use
$3.00
Fresh acai berries covered in rich, dark chocolate. Fresh, cold rice milk and crisp white musk.
Sucreabeille
Afterglow (oil) (2 available)
1 dram
1 use
$3.00
Dark chocolate, Amber, Honey
Sucreabeille
Apricot Tree (oil)
1 dram
1 use
$3.00
Fresh, tangy apricots, fizzing bubbles, a dash of herbal sage.
Sucreabeille
Byzantine (oil) (3 available)
1 dram
NEW
$3.00
many strong cups of black tea, burnt sugar, a library of old books
Sucreabeille
Coconut Palm (oil)
1 dram
1 use
$3.00
Creamy coconut, swirls of black musk and vanilla, fresh green petitgrain, island beach grasses, and a hint of ocean breeze.
Sucreabeille
Dead or Alive (oil) (2 available)
10 ml roller bottle
95% full
$10.00
juicy, plump strawberries, sweet hazelnut toffee, a fresh grass stain on the knee of your favorite pair of jeans, animalistic musk.
Sucreabeille
Fig Tree (oil)
1 dram
1 use
$3.00
Warm late summer figs offered on a platter with warm honeycomb, almonds, coumarin, and sips of red wine. Healthy. This is healthy.
Sucreabeille
Sansa (double blind fixative test)
4 drams
1 use each
$6.00
This was a test of Sansa set in 4 different fixatives. I tested each once and even though I love the scent of Sansa, none of them worked on me and Sansa still disappears on my skin the second it's dry :(
Tater Rounds
So Spooky
5 ml roller
1 use
$5.00
Yummy notes of buttery sugar, orange zest, nutmeg and cinnamon. It’s a very warm and inviting scent!
$1.00 PERFUME SAMPLE SALE - ALL ITEMS IN THIS GROUP $1.00!
BRAND
SCENT
SIZE
USAGE
PRICE
DESCRIPTION
Arcana
Apples Crave Peaches
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Green apple hard candy with sugared peaches.
Arcana
Burlesque
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
The sweet, smoky decadence of a bawdy dance hall, with bold amber, spicy chocolate, and the warm wood of a well-traveled stage.
Arcana
Celestite
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Delicate iris, lavender, violet, orris root, confectioner's sugar, vanilla bean creme, and white musk.
Arcana
Glittering Blue
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A cooling blend of tart blue lemonade, iced lemon bundt cake, creamy blue musk, a drizzle of blue chamomile, and our Glittering White (an opening of cold peppermint settles into a heart of sugar cookies, marshmallows, white chocolate, and vanilla musk).
Arcana
Glittering Pink
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A sugary sweet melange of pink pistachio candy, pink peppermint ice cream, pink musk, and our Glittering White (an opening of cold peppermint settles into a heart of sugar cookies, marshmallows, white chocolate, and vanilla musk).
Arcana
Pumpkins Crave Bacon
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Sugar pumpkin with maple, nutmeg, and smoky bacon accord.
Arcana
Rhodochrosite
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Fragrant Monoi de Tahiti with pink lemonade, citron, fresh gingerroot, and pink labdanum
Astrid
Boo
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Marshmallow and pumpkin.
Astrid
Fireflies in jars
0.5 ml sample
NEW
$1.00
Black currant, white gardenia blossoms, summer peaches, mullein, Egyptian geranium, fossilized amber, and a few drops of my ten-year-old house aged patchouli.
Astrid
Nostalgic
0.5 ml sample
NEW
$1.00
Summer lilies, lemon shandy accord, tobacco, and orange blossom.
Astrid
Nuture
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Vanilla cake, shortbread cookies, lemon bars, pumpkin bread, sweet Portuguese orange, mango pulp, and red rose petals.
Astrid
Oh Woe Is Me
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Blueberry, blueberry muffin, violet, cold milk, lavender maillette, cream, and a touch of peppermint and spearmint.
Astrid
Pumpkin Taffy
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Salt water taffy with pumpkin puree and spices.
Black Baccara
Alice's Tea Party
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
This complex blend begins with a sweet, earthy green tea blend which reveals hints of apples, oranges, cherries, and marshmallows on the dry down. Phantoms of cinnamon, berries, and vanilla move through to soften the fruits ever so slightly before settling into a soft, fruity, tea-tinged enchantment.
Black Baccara
New Doll
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Take a trip back to your childhood and experience the nostalgic fragrance of a brand new doll. This comforting and nostalgic blend mimics that peculiarly beautiful powdery softness of strawberries, leather, and the odd ghosting of plastic and cotton. New doll is inspired by memories of childhood and the first fruity, leathery, baby-powdery whiffs of a brand new doll. This unusual, complex blend is an aromatic recreation of that "new doll" smell. It unfolds through hints of cupcakes, strawberries, lemons, baby powder, leather and cotton and lingers as a fruity, powdery scent while retaining a hint of leather.
BPAL
Don't Tell Heaven is Under the Earth
1 ml decant
2-3 uses
$1.00
A handful of honey sticks, yesterday’s patchouli, and a dusting of cinnamon sugar.
BPAL
Pumpkin Dust
1 ml decant
3-5 uses
$1.00
Shavings of white pumpkin rind and honey powder.
Haus of Gloi
Blueberry Pie
1.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Simple! Pie crust and blueberries.
Haus of Gloi
Caramelized Gardenia
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Bright gardenia, caramel accord, and a twist of fresh ginger.
Haus of Gloi
Caramelized Incense
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Soft nag champa incense, caramel accord, and a touch of dragon's blood.
Haus of Gloi
Caramelized Infusion
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Lavender bud infused fresh milk swirled into caramel accord.
Haus of Gloi
Kumbaya
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
chocolate, graham cracker, marshmallow, sandalwood, and woodsmoke
Haus of Gloi
Lavender Lemonade
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Bright and delightful! Lavender and fresh tart lemonade.
Haus of Gloi
Pink Marshmallow Milk
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Magical pink berries and frothy cold milk.
Haus of Gloi
Osa (2 available)
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Chocolate chunks covered in marshmallow grounded in an earthy brown bear musk.
Haus of Gloi
Pumpkin Ice Cream
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Homemade custard style pumpkin ice cream.
Haus of Gloi
Pumpkin Marshmallow
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Two great smells the smell great together, fluffy marshmallow and pumpkin accord
Haus of Gloi
Twice is Nice
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Buttery sugar cookie, with shavings of creamy coconut and topped with toasted almond slivers.
Haus of Gloi
Vice
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Steam billows rolling off a vessel of fresh made Turkish coffee, marshmallow goo tainted by graham cracker crumbs, toasted hazelnuts and blanketed in black chocolate.
pâte à choux filled with vanilla cream pudding and pumpkin pie filling.
Hexennacht
Strawberry Lemonade
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Strawberry Lemonade
Hexennacht
Where My Uggs At
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
pumpkin spice latte, shearling.
Hexennacht
Whizzpopper
0.5 ml decant
NEW
$1.00
Grape bubblegum and lemonade.
Love Potion
Bosom Bows w/ Phero
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A heady scent with an androgynous air but also a tantalizing hint of feminine sensuality which invites the sharing of confidences and the warmth of friendship, get acquainted with our blend of smooth sandalwood and amber, spicy accents of neroli and cinnamon, plus hand-tinctured bee pollen within a base of warm vanilla oak.
Love Potion
Cedar & Sandalwood
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Cedar & Sandalwood
Love Potion
Gooey Crunch
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
a yummy, gooey, crunchy autumnal delight featuring English toffee and marshmallow fluff, maple sugar, and my beautiful chewy aged patchouli in the base
Love Potion
Jennifer's Blue Moon
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
deep black vanilla and a splash of vanilla bean, sweet roasted chestnuts and smidges of deep violet and blueberry.
Love Potion
Lois' Lucky Ladybug
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
cucumber, bamboo, aloe, leafy greens and a wee drop of mint.
Love Potion
Madame President
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
sandalwood and musk in the base - these have great power magically but smell velvety soft...like silk. Strong, yet yielding...sensual, but not passive. I featured orchid on top because it represents dignity and refinement, and olive blossom because it represents enormous power - think Alexander the Great. I added a splash of ginseng because it represents power and virility, protects and wards off evil. A few shakes of black pepper EO to remind people that the kitten has claws, and a single drop of carnation to inspire admiration and also for it's quarrel mending reputation in lore.
Love Potion
Martha's Moon Goddess
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
An African incense style scent with a base of bright blue musk and a pinch of vetiver, blended with a trio of black coconut oils, and fruitily brightened with tiny drops of honeydew and cucumber.
Love Potion
Oshun & Ogun
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Scent of river water, female arousal and lubrication, ambrosia, coconut, raw wild forest honey fresh from the comb in the tree hive, blacksmith smoke, the crisp smell of "just turning autumn", kola nut and red clay, red sandalwood and warm, moist, fertile earth
Love Potion
Polar Bear Lovers
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Wintery woods and dry sage over velvety white musk with tiny dashes of spicy bayberry and peppermint.
Love Potion
The Tao of Torre
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
a light and fresh collection of essential oils and sheer accents. Blossoms of orange, lemon, white lily and freesia, drops of apricot, nutmeg, bamboo and green tea, with a dusting of sandalwood in the base.
Love Potion
Tyvey's Banana Positions
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Super creamy vanillas and chewy aged patchouli, gently spiced with nutmeg and cinnamon, with a delicious helping of caramelized banana.
Love Potion
Tyvey's CocoaCinnaCarnation
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Cocoa, cinnamon, and carnation
Moonalisa
Witchery
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Sultry ambers, woods, and magic!
NAVA
Candied Pumpkin Pie
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Pumpkin Pie accord (Clove, Cinnamon, Ginger and Nutmeg), Crystallized Bastet’s Ice Cream blend, Crystalline, Madagascar Vanilla Bean whole and Candied blend
NAVA
Hekate Cat
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Black Hemlock, French Lavender, Pistachio, Sandalwood, Vanilla Pudding accord, Brown Sugar and a touch of White Cinnamon
NAVA
Hemlock Cat
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Blue Hemlock, English Lavender, Musk, Vanilla Cake accord, Vanilla, Brown Sugar and touch of Cinnamon
Homemade maple pumpkin bread with Autumn harvest honey, spiced with nutmeg and clove, drizzled with salted caramel, and dotted with Turkish apricot.
Nui Cobalt
Drunk Pumpkin
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A boozy scent to honor the spirits and celebrate the change of seasons. An oversized pumpkin punchbowl filled with hot apple cider, Caribbean dark rum, Tennessee whiskey, cinnamon sticks, ginger root and a twist of lemon.
Nui Cobalt
Flaming Pumpkin
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A powerful prosperity blend to quickly draw abundant wealth and success. Woodsmoke, burnt brown sugar, two types of patchouli, fresh ginger root, and Jarrahdale pumpkin pureed with nutmeg and a spritz of blood orange.
Nui Cobalt
Pumpkin Cupcake
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A comforting scent to ease your mind and soothe your nerves. Whipped white pumpkin between layers of angel food cake, marshmallow frosting, and a light dusting of allspice.
Nui Cobalt
Wicked Pumpkin
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
A sexy potion that's sure to make you the belle of any masquerade ball. Sandalwood musk and dark patchouli with maple sugar, peach skin, cardamom, and freshly baked pumpkin pie.
Possets
Candy Corn Polka
1 ml decant
85% full
$1.00
Jouncing notes of candy corn jumbled together and so very very very sweet. Brown sugar, a hint of tutti fruit complimented by a very high class almost smokey version of the confection.
Possets
Howl
1 ml sample
Full
$1.00
Black, red and amber musks wrestle furiously with sandalwood and opium tar resin. There is nothing light, sweet, or gentle about this scent. A burning incense backs it up, black patchouli stands in the forefront..
Possets
Madame X
1 ml sample
1 use
$1.00
Skin musk, wax, cream, lemon zest, champagne, and a kiss of bitter vanilla.
Possets
Morgan Le Fey
1 ml sample
NEW
$1.00
Flowers meet patchouli and collide with spices. Instead of becoming a confused mish-mash it contains a singular character and is captivating.
Possets
Passion
1 ml sample
60% full
$1.00
A supersaturated chocolate solution of chocolated chocolate with a smooth chocolate interior and a chocolate shell covered in chocolate sauce and floating in a puddle of chocolate.
Possets
Pepys Yellow Pepys
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Sort of like the original yellow ones, with nuanced fruit notes, a whiff of banana and a slight zest of lemon.
Possets
Pumpkin Pepys
1 ml decant
4-5 uses
$1.00
All of the pungent wit of pumpkin combined with the keen gourmandy goodness of huge fuffy marshmallows, vanilla, and just plain old forbidden stickiness.
Possets
Tricky
0.5 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Yes, there is the true scent of bacon shot throughout this offering, BUT it is married with BUTTER!!! Great mother of pearl, but the degeneracy doesn't stop there, it is wrapped in the most gossamer of phyllo pastry, and coated in Anatolian honey!
Sucreabeille
Black Rose (oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
wild rose, rich dark chocolate, fresh vanilla bean, burnt sugar, whiskey, bourbon, an old library in a dusty castle, patchouli, a cold creamsicle on a hot day, really good bacon.
Sucreabeille
Dwight, You Ignorant Slut!
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
a glass of homemade lemonade on a hot afternoon (because your parents gave you money to start a stand, and now, surplus!); peppermint (straight out of the best ice cream flavor); a freshly picked yuzu (it’s a Japanese fruit, did you know that?); pomegranate (who discovered this fruit, right? What is the deal with pomegranate?)
Sucreabeille
Here's the thing: fuck everyone (oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
Bourbon, Rich chocolate, Dark amber, touch of dirt
Sucreabeille
Honey I Washed (lush dupe - oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
honey toffee
Sucreabeille
Lady Swears (oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
Bourbon, Tahitian Vanilla, Lemon
Sucreabeille
Pele (oil)
1 ml decant
1 use
$1.00
Named for the Hawaiian goddess of fire, lightning, wind, and volcanoes, this scent packs a fruity, floral, distinctly feminine punch. This scent is similarly bold and forthright, with notes of pear, fig, and blueberry, which fade to the scent of heavenly, real ylang ylang.
Sucreabeille
That's What She Said
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
A glass of whisky paired with a glass of bay rum aftershave with just a hint of lime squeezed in (because alcohol is an aphrodisiac, and nothing is better than mixing liquor and accidental aftershave to really get the party started); the best Pretzel Day toppings: chocolate chips and toffee nuts. And cocoa absolut.
Sucreabeille
Wanted (oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
a spiky, juicy pineapple, a sprig of cilantro, freshly squeezed lime juice, passionfruit, mango.
Sucreabeille
Yog Nug (lush dupe - oil)
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
caramel, clove oil and soft ylang ylang, chocolate
Honeysuckle, sweet pea, and apple enveloped in a rich base of amber, vanilla, and cedar. I've rounded it out with subtle nuances of sandalwood and champa, and then anchored it with a deep animalic musk - but just a whisper!
Traveling Vardo
Rarotonga
0.75 ml sample
NEW
$1.00
Rarotonga.... ahhhhhhhhhh.... sweet tropical coconut with elegant ylang ylang, vanilla, white musk, and a whisper of Tahitian gardenia. Welcome to the islands!
Vintners Reserve
Apple Pie Moonshine
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
Our Apple Pie Moonshine smells just like the southern favorite. Apple cider is combined with cinnamon, clove, vanilla, and other spices for a lush scent perfect for Fall and Winter.
Vintners Reserve
Banana Pudding
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
Banana pudding is a classic dessert around our table. Our take smells just like fresh banana pudding, with notes of banana, vanilla wafers, and (our secret ingredient) whipped cream!
Vintners Reserve
Pina Colada
1 ml sample bottle
1 use
$1.00
A blend of fresh pineapple, coconut cream, ice, and rum with a hint of banana, our Pina Colada is a cool and smooth summer cocktail that will surely keep you coming back for more.
Candy Canes, Powdered Sugar, Snickerdoodles, and Vanilla Cream
0.5 oz decant in glass spray bottle
$4.00
And yet, not /too/ sweet!
BPTP
Hair Gloss
Caramel Pecan Rum
4 oz - 1 use
$24.00
Sweetened with brown sugar.
BPTP
Hair Gloss
Cinnamon, Sugar Cookies, & Egg Nog
4 oz - 1 use
$24.00
No official description available.
Cocoa Pink
Linen Spray
Butterscotch Bars
2.5 oz - 1 use
$5.00
Goo describes these delicious so rich and buttery, so melt-in-your-mouth magnificent butterscotch bars.
Cocoa Pink
Linen Spray
Night Before Christmas
2.5 oz - 1 use
$5.00
Delicate Douglas Fir boughs adorned with sparkling festive ornaments warmed by flames of a roaring fireplace while bright candy canes rest next to a plate of vanilla laced sugar cookies set out for Santa's arrival.
A blend of sticky, messy, sweet and golden caramel drenches a fresh, juicy red apple. Predominant note of caramel tempered with red apple and a hint of green apple.
Solstice Scents
Burnishing Glace
Victorian Tea Room
0.5 oz decant in glass spray bottle, used 2x
$4.00
Palmarosa, Kumquat-Orange Marmalade, Chamomile, Rose, Lemon, Black Tea, Oriental Base
So, I wanted to write a newbie guide about Perfume Basics From the POV of a Consumer. I am a consumer myself and there are a lot of perfumista superstitions that get passed around as perfume lore (like that coffee bean thing), so please let me know if I have unknowingly included something contentious, just plain inaccurate, or needs citations. This one covers: notes, notes lists, types of carriers, skin chemistry, and longevity. Defining perfume Talking about perfumes can get a little confusing. There are only a finite number of times you can use the terms perfume and fragrance before it starts getting imprecise or repetitive. For the purposes of this guide, I'm defining the vocabulary thus:
Perfume or fragrance: Except in cases where I am talking about aroma, I usually use it to mean either products or a specific blend. Something that is more than the sum of its parts. What we, as consumers, purchase in various forms.
Perfume compound or concentrate: The actual perfume, a blend composed of many components, before it is further diluted and divided for sale. Different concentrations of this compound affect performance and price.
Perfume oil: A type of perfume product based on oil carriers that consumers buy.
Fragrance oil: A pre-made oil mixed from several components (sometimes a mix of natural and synthetic; sometimes entirely synthetic) to evoke an aroma. Not always meant to replicate a natural, some of them can be abstract (Amazon rain). Generally, it's lesser quality as a perfume ingredient than natural extractions or aroma chemicals, but much cheaper to acquire and, for some, an ethical alternative, such as using sandalwood/beeswax FO rather than real beeswax/sandalwood (see: Key Notes of next section).
Stock fragrance: A pre-made perfume, concentrate or oil sold by a distributor for personal use or retail purposes. Sometimes stock fragrances dupe (or replicate) mainstream fragrances, but not always; they can also be simple or a popular original composition. Not all brands will disclose whether the fragrance was purchased from a stock fragrance distributor rather than created in-house.
Elsewhere, you might see concentrate described as perfume oil or fragrance oil or simply perfume, or fragrance oil meaning stock fragrance, or any mixture of substitutions. When talking about perfume with others, make sure you're on the same page with definitions. What are notes? In perfumery, we see "notes" as the equivalent to a painter's palette or a composer's orchestra, made from various components. In some cases, components are straight botanical extractions (essential oils, enfleurage, infusions, tincturing, etc.), such as lavender and cinnamon, or synthetic replications (aroma chemicals, many fragrance oils), like ethyl maltol (candyfloss/caramel-esque). In others, a "note" might actually be comprised of several or numerous materials (both synthetic and natural), such as for amber, or modified from other notes to concoct a new variation or create a fantasy concept. A lot of these notes can have multiple sources, such as vanilla, which can be natural (a home-made tincture or EO), synthetic (vanillin), or simulated using other notes (Peruvian basalm or tonka). When components react together to deliberately produce something new, that's called an accord, which is also sometimes simply called a "note." There's more to it, including counter-examples, but that's a general overview. Basically, "notes" are more abstract than literal. Perfumers either purchase their components from suppliers (who are either producers or, more commonly, middle-men who can leverage buying in bulk in order to sell to makers) or extract their own botanicals. If a supplier disappears or no longer stocks a certain component, it is not as simple as getting one from somewhere else to replace it. Sometimes, the source for the components makes them smell distinct from similar ones, so exact reformulation is not always successful. Fragrances can be all natural (no synthetic components) or mixed media (both synthetic and natural). Usually, perfumes that are all-natural will be marked as such and some perfumers specialize in creating them; everything else is generally a mixture. Due to a variety of factors, such as labor and production scale, many naturally-extracted materials are much more expensive to acquire than their aroma chemical or fragrance oil replacements, which is why all-natural perfumes are frequently priced higher than mixed media. Key Notes:
Perfumers have multiple sources for their components, which consumers sometimes view as notes, although please keep in mind that "notes" are conceptual and for consumer benefit or marketing purposes only. Though it is very probable that some perfumers have suppliers in common, we can't assume it's the same specific note. It also means that, unless specified, Blends A, B, and C don't necessarily share the same "note" you like or dislike because the brand likely has more than one source of any note.
Natural perfumes are usually more expensive than mixed-media perfumes due to cost of components. Keep that in mind when evaluating whether the asking price is worth it!
Some essential oils are only safe at certain dilutions, so part of buying perfume is trusting a perfumer's knowledge of their craft. In my experience, perfumers usually disclose if their blend includes a common irritant such as spices like cinnamon, but honestly, anything can be an irritant. We never really know everything in the formula, so always be careful and patch test. Even if you're usually not sensitive to fragrances, a slight increase in potency (even at a safe dilution) might mean an adverse reaction. Because humans are amazing, sometimes we find natural materials more tolerable than synthetics, and the reverse is also true, where aroma chemicals are safer than the natural they've replaced.
What about notes lists? Notes are sometimes classified according to the order we detect them: top or head, middle or heart, and base. The top notes are ones you smell first due to their molecular volatility, which makes them evaporate quickest; some aromas are famous for this, such as citruses. The transition from top to mid/base is often more obvious than the progression from middle to base. Base notes linger the longest, and often have fixative properties for other notes. Regardless, these are not strict divisions (some notes are more like top/heart or heart/base etc.) because the entire composition interacts during development. Taking into consideration the molecular behavior of aromas means a perfumer is a cross between an artist and a chemist. Some perfumers choose to include notes in their perfume description for the benefit of the consumer, either as a list or organized into a top/middle/base pyramid. Sometimes there's a rationale for the list arrangement, such as listing them according to prominence or quantity, but not always. Although common, a notes list is only one method for the perfumer to describe the perfume to consumers. Sometimes perfumes are sold just with a text description that can be simple (floral oriental based on roses and vanilla versus floral chypre based on roses and vanilla) or evocative. Or it uses a mixture of both approaches. There is no best way to really communicate what the perfume will smell like since they all have advantages and disadvantages, and in general smells are difficult to describe. Two perfumes can list the same notes, yet smell completely different from each other. Reading notes lists sometimes requires decoding. A lot of materials can have alternate names, or appear to be synonymous when in fact it's completely different. Some examples: bourbon vanilla is another name for Madagascar vanilla, but it is not boozy unless specified; opoponax is sometimes called sweet myrrh, but it does not smell like myrrh (sometimes distinguished as bitter myrrh); rock roses produce cistus (rock rose) and labdanum, which smell different from each other but neither are rosy; lily of the valley and muguet are the same thing; oudh can be aloeswood, agarwood, and eagleswood; cassis is blackcurrant; although tiare is also known as Tahitian gardenia, it does not smell like gardenia; neroli and orange blossom are made from the same part of the bitter orange tree (which also produces petitgrain and bitter orange/brigarade; a hybrid cross produces bergamot), but different extraction processes change their smells. At times perfumers exchange the words as if they're interchangeable, and as you can see, sometimes they are. But not always. Reasons for why they do this varies (new supplies, differentiating between extraction methods or harvests, their supplier added to the confusion such as selling "neroli/orange blossom," ignorance, perceived elegance, etc), but it means it's possible that a note you (dis)like lurks within the description. This is especially important if you are allergic to something! However, notes lists are not ingredients lists. If a perfumer lists 5 notes in their description, it does not mean they utilized only 5 materials in their formula; it's possible there are 20 or more components in the perfume. Some of it is due to industry secrecy and mystique, but some of it is for practicality: reading a list of dozens of materials is unnecessarily overwhelming rather than informative. Some of their formulation includes materials that are meant to affect other notes in some way, such as tempering or strengthening the performance of something else, or smoothing out (harmonizing) the blend; sometimes they're in such minuscule amounts that ideally we shouldn't smell them distinctly or they're odorless fixatives. Or, as I mentioned above, those "notes" are actually summaries of a lot of different components to produce something new. It also means that, sometimes, you're not meant to smell everything in the notes list. Some people are lucky: either anosmic (unable to smell) or sensitive to the material anyway, such as being unable to smell certain synthetic musks or finding Iso-E Super (a woody odor) overwhelming in any amount. Important Takeaways:
By paying attention to what kind of notes are given in the description, we can estimate its expected performance - at least to some degree. If it only names mostly light top/heart notes, it will probably have fleeting performance; a perfume that lists only heavy resins should, in theory, last several hours, so if it fails to do so then something is amiss. However, the interactions between components can affect performance in ways unexpected to us.
Pay attention for potential alternate names and be aware of simplification. For example, if the key notes say "rose," that could mean any number of things if they don't specify. Turkish roses are different from Bulgarian, which are different from Moroccan, and none of them are tea roses or pink roses or white roses; the aroma chemical isolates are not quite the same as the natural materials that vary between harvests, and neither smell like rose fragrance oils. This can also explain why a note might not smell like you expect.
What is a carrier, and how does that affect perfume? A carrier is whatever chosen solvent that diluted the components. As consumers, the important part is the medium of the final product: oil, alcohol, or solid. Each of these have their pros and cons. What's pro for one consumer is a con to another: a feature rather than a bug. I classified some as "it depends" because whether it's an advantage or disadvantage is personal or situational.
OILS
Examples: Fractionated coconut oil, jojoba (technically a wax that's liquid at room temperature), sweet almond, rice bran, grapeseed, etc. Sometimes a blend can list more than one carrier oil. Pros: Oils ship anywhere so perfume oils are very accessible. Moisturizes skin to some degree. Cons: Varying shelf lives of each oil means sometimes the perfume can go unexpectedly rancid. Stains very easily. Sometimes brands don't completely disclose all the carriers. Depends: Lower sillage due to slower evaporation. More responsive to skin chem than alcohol. Changes the performance of the fragrance, which some find flattening or linear, but others find ideal for certain notes, such as heavy bases. Usually sold in smaller amounts than alcohol-based. Since some materials do not fully dissolve in oil, there can be a lava lamp-like separation or the oil will look cloudy.
ALCOHOL
Examples: Denatured 95% ethanol, sometimes called perfumer's alcohol (denatured means it's rendered undrinkable through an agent), from grape (usually in organic/all natural perfumes), cane sugar, or grain. Non-alcohol alternatives to retain spray-ability are usually IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) and Cyclomethicone ("dry oil" sprays). Pros: Easier to spritz and go (assuming it comes in an atomiser; some are splashers). More familiarity with application. Fragrance is more stable in some ways, less prone to changing. Cons: Shipment of alcohol-based anything is extremely regulated or even forbidden, so some brands refuse to ship internationally, thus access is often limited. Adds to the weight of packages. Sometimes the denaturing agent is detectable, or the alcohol smell is too detectable because they used a lower-proof liquid or you're sensitive to alcohol. Some find alcohol-based perfumes more of a migraine trigger, or very drying for their skin. The cost of acquiring alcohol is often passed along to consumers. Depends: Larger sillage due to faster evaporation. Less responsive to skin chem compared to oils. Changes the performance of the fragrance, such as more prominent fresh top notes, but base notes may not seem to go as deep.
SOLID
Examples: Beeswax, candelilla wax, or soy wax mixed with various butters and sometimes additional oils. Lots of alternatives for all of these parts, including other waxes, can change this from a balm to a cream. Pros: Portability, especially if you're traveling by plane, and easy reapplication. No spills. Some people find solids the least triggering for headaches. Moisturizes skin to some degree. Cons: Potential to melt. Beeswax is fragrant and often detectable unless it's been filtered and bleached. Formulation can make it too soft or too hard to easily apply. Sometimes the fragrance can dry out. Depends: Generally, lower sillage. You might have an issue with texture (greasy, gummy, etc) and perceived sanitation due to its application. The compacts, tins or tubes can be a nice visual change. The format can affect top notes in particular, or come across as more linear.
Obviously, this is not a full list of potential carriers or their advantages/disadvantages. TL;DR:
The bases of oils and balms are not as regulated as alcohol and can be shipped anywhere, so they are the most accessible to us as consumers and, generally speaking, more public-friendly.
If the brand offers multiple formats, one cannot assume that they all smell the same. Because often the perfumer has to alter the blend in some way to suit the medium (at the very least, in concentration, but sometimes partial or total reformulation is involved), usually each one will be a different experience from the other and you might prefer perfume in one form over another. Then again, sometimes they smell exactly the same across formats.
If you have a perfume oil, pay attention to the carrier(s) a perfumer lists: they have different shelf lives. Stored properly, fractionated coconut oil has a near-indefinite shelf life, with jojoba second; others, such as grapeseed, are estimated to last around 6 months. A blend of carriers generally extends the shelf life somewhat, but not always. However, this assumes the carriers were fresh for your perfume. If it is important to you to keep the perfume around for a while, please keep in mind the potential shelf lives of the carriers. I recommend periodically checking your collection to make sure your perfumes still smell okay.
What about longevity? In many guides, perfume oils will be listed as longer-lasting than sprays, with solids usually having the shortest longevity. This is based on two assumptions: higher concentrations often result in increased longevity and each form has a consistent range of concentration. While the first assumption is not wrong, the second one is not so straight forward. According to this theory, perfume sprays would work something like this: eau de toilettes (EDT) should last longer than eau de colognes (EDC), eau de parfums (EDP) last longer than EDTs, and extraits/parfums beat EDPs. [In mainstreams, sometimes EDT and EDP are actually different formulations rather than different concentrations, but that's another issue.] There are several other terms, but those are the common ones in my experience. Depending on who you ask, perfume oil is supposed to be somewhere in the range between EDP and extrait, with solids in the EDT range.
First, it assumes every category follows a consistent range of concentration. In reality, no standardized definitions exist and acceptable ranges are actually pretty wide, so there is a lot of overlap. For example, various sources claim EDP concentration is: 8%-15% [source], 10%-15% [source], 10%-20% [source], or 10%-30% [source]. Their definitions for EDT and extraits are similarly all over the place. If perfume oil is supposed to be roughly around EDP strength or a bit higher, then that is a huge range. Additionally, perfumers will adjust concentration levels to suit their intended effect or acceptable price point.
Second, formulations are incredibly important. If the carrier uses oils that absorb too quickly or don't hold scent well for long, that will affect longevity. A poorly-structured oil (lacking proper fixatives) might perform like an EDC; EDTs that are unusually concentrated or better-formulated can outlast EDPs. Then there's simple science: a resin-based perfume will hang around longer than a citrus-based one no matter the concentration levels due to their different molecular weights. All-natural perfumes have a reputation of being relatively short-lived too.
Third, heat makes a difference in performance. This includes both skin and weatheseason - mostly the latter. Sweating and humidity both affect how perfume blooms, particularly longevity. This is also why some perfumes seem to smell different depending on the weather.
So although different types of perfume have the reputation of certain concentration ranges, in reality it's not so simple. Rather than assuming that the format of the perfume means we can expect an average performance, variables like the above are important considerations for assessing whether longevity is too short, adequate, or impressive. Notes:
Mainstream brands are notoriously tight-lipped about concentrations. Niches and indies too, but sometimes they will openly list how concentrated perfumes are somewhere on their page. Paying attention to that can help explain why the oil outlasted the spray, or why the solid outlasted both, although it won't conclusively explain longevity issues..
As for reasonable expectations of longevity, that's up to you to decide. There are estimates both from experts and perfumers themselves, generally in the 3 to 6 hour range for oils/EDPs (sometimes as high as 8), but perfume is individualized both in its behavior on skin as well as the consumer's purpose, such as whether you're comfortable reapplying, whether you want to have the option to change perfumes (eg: between something work appropriate vs something for sleep), or if you expected more/less for the price.
How does skin chemistry factor into all this? Our unique skin chemistry affects most perfumes regardless of format, changing the way a blend blooms on skin. Sometimes this difference is minor or undetectable, but other times it can be disastrous, transmogrifying beauty into grossness or amplifying some nuances over others. On one hand, this can personalize the sensory experience of perfume, so juice that smells terrible in the bottle will blossom wonderfully on your skin in a way that it doesn't on anybody else's. But on the other, it means it's possible that the perfumer did everything right and the blend can still go horribly, inexplicably wrong or evaporate more quickly when it touches your skin. Oil perfumes have a reputation of being more susceptible to skin chemistry because of how close it sits on skin and gets absorbed into it. There's good and bad news about skin chemistry: it changes. The most common examples for sudden changes are menstrual cycles and pregnancy, thanks to hormonal fluxes. But it also potentially includes growing older, changes in medication (including birth control), health, diet, smoking habits, etc. Perfumes you once hated can suddenly smell amazing, and beloved comfort fragrances can become sickening. This change can be temporary or permanent. This affects perception too; the blend doesn't even have to touch skin for it to seem different to your nose and brain. Some of it is, of course, possibly how tastes in perfume can evolve or developing a keener sense of smell. For example, some find that their sense of smell changes during pregnancy, becoming more or less sensitive. In short:
Testing on skin is integral to deciding whether or not the perfume works for you.
What works for skin last year or even last month might not work the same way tomorrow or next year. This is not necessarily due to changes in body or sense of smell, since factors such as aging oils and weather are also in effect.
Can a consumer extend the longevity of perfume? In some ways, this is like asking if there's anything we, as house owners, can do to reinforce the structural integrity of a house someone else built. Yes, there are things we can do that help, but we don't accomplish as much as an architect who can tweak the blueprint before the concrete is poured. It depends on why the perfume isn't lasting very long and what aspects you want to alter. If it is short-lived due to formulation, such as whether the perfumer properly integrated fixatives or their carrier mix, then it is more difficult to compensate for that. If you're trying to make top notes stick around, that's something neither you nor the perfumer can help much because by nature top notes dissipate quickly. As mentioned before, weather can also affect perfume and that can't be helped unless you are a wizard. Although your success rate will vary, even between perfumes, here are some ideas to try:
Pick a different place for application, or multiple places. This might seem like a DUH! kind of solution, but if you're applying perfume somewhere that is rubbed or scrubbed often, you might be removing the perfume rather than experiencing disappointing longevity. If you're using or washing your hands a lot, try your upper arms or elsewhere, although clothing might obstruct it. It might also be a problem with a decreased sillage, or scent projection, rather than longevity. You might not be able to smell it from your wrists, but maybe you can from your shoulders, chest or neck. Please note that some locations on the body are more sensitive, so be cautious - just because your chest or wrist can handle perfume doesn't mean your neck won't get a rash.
Layer products with the same fragrance. If a perfume comes in a body product, try layering them together. Same if it comes in different concentrations.
Moisturize! Dry skin will absorb perfume faster. The best is probably one that already shares the same fragrance, but if that's not available, try an unscented body cream or even body oil.
Apply perfume to fabric or hair. Please be careful when putting perfume on clothing or accessories since sometimes it can stain or retain scent far longer than you anticipated, even through repeated washes. You can also add some perfume to a fabric scrap or cotton ball and hide that somewhere on your person, such as in a locket or pocket.
A perfume primer might help. A couple places sell perfume stickers, which promise to extend the wear time of perfume applied on top of the barrier. I have never personally tried one so I cannot do more than point out that the option exists.
Wear it in a different season. Some perfumes just perform better in different weather.
Let it age. This is usually only for oil perfumes. Some perfumers blend to order, or maybe coincidentally you ordered right when a new batch was finished, but a fresh batch smells and performs differently than one that's aged for a bit. If you can, set it aside for at least a couple weeks, preferably months, then try it again.
Some also apply more fragrance. In my experience, this usually results in larger sillage, not necessarily better longevity, but as always YMMV. It's also possible that your nose has become desensitized to its presence, a sort of temporary specific anosmia. The fragrance might still be detectable to others even if it seems to have disappeared to you. Basics:
If you plan on aging or keeping the perfume, the best storage is away from direct light/heat and at a consistent dry temperature with a tight cap. This is especially important if the containers are clear rather than opaque or if you live somewhere humid with frequent extreme changes in temperature. Regardless, even with proper storage, some perfumes deteriorate anyway while others seem to last forever. This can be either due to the carrier or nature of the notes (top notes are usually the first to go) as the fragrance breaks down, leaving you with a container that just smells like the carrier or "off".
There are some ways to affect longevity, but between formulation and skin chem, sometimes there isn't much you can do except reapply or find other ways to use the perfume, such as in an oil burner or as a linen spray. If the original bottle is too awkward to carry with you, you can decant into rollerballs or smaller bottles/sprays. But I don't know anything about how to do this except that teensy 1ml rollerballs exist and they are so cute I could die.
Long winded explanation of how I formulated an aftershave that turned out so well I decided to sell it.
From the very beginning of my foray into traditional wet shaving, my favorite part of the experience was always the aftershave splash (balms were just too boring and left my skin irritating “tacky”). The wonderful scents and the invigorating cooling sensation of a good splash just really brought the whole traditional shaving experience together for me in an especially satisfying way. This simple enjoyment led to a small obsession that involved me purchasing literally dozens of different aftershaves to sample. However, it wasn't until I tried Alt Innsbruck (an incredibly well reviewed Austrian aftershave), that I found exactly how good an aftershave could be. It seemed to have just the right amount of everything, although it was famously made with only four ingredients: alcohol, water, menthol and Virginia tobacco oil. Inspired by the apparent simplicity of these ingredients, along with the desire to save a couple of bucks, I decided to see if I could recreate my new favorite product on my own. Exploring all of the on-line boards for shaving enthusiasts, I found many recipes for homemade aftershave, but nothing that really looked at all like what I was trying to accomplish. What I did find was that distilled water and Vodka or Everclear seemed to be the preferred base ingredients and that menthol came in a pure crystalized form that will dissolve, so I thought I had a start. However, when I got everything together and mixed it in all kinds of ratios - with multiple essential oils (including tobacco, eucalyptus, vetiver, hemp, hops, grapefruit, etc..) – nothing came close to meeting my expectations. The alcohol had too much of its own scent, and the essential oils were too one dimensional. To this day I still have no idea where Alt Innsbruck finds their Virginia Tobacco oil. I didn't find anything that smells even close, and I tried every one I could find. So I gave up on my quest, but my interest in traditional shaving continued, and I still checked into all of the on-line forums regularly. Until one day it finally came to my attention that (unlike Alt Innsbruck) the aftershave fragrances I enjoyed so much were basically just diluted colognes. Although perhaps obvious in retrospect, at the time this proved to be a highly impactful insight for me, which led to a brand new obsession. After all, if I enjoyed drug store aftershave, surely high end, meticulously crafted men’s fragrances would double my pleasure! So back to the sampling I went... and I found that there were many scents I enjoyed, particularly names like Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver, YSL Rive Gauche, Aqua de Parma Colonia, and Guerlain Vetiver, all of which were often referred to as “barbershop” scents. Unfortunately, I also found that in addition to being very expensive, that when applying these colognes I usually couldn't use my beloved splashes because of scent clashing. I tried switching to straight witch hazel or even gasp unscented balms to avoid this situation, but it just didn’t do it for me. Not only that, but I also became frustrated with the strength of the less diluted colognes themselves. They just had too much projection for my tastes, and that made me uncomfortable. Now some of these colognes do come in aftershave versions, but at $60 - $80 per bottle that just wasn't a reasonable long-term solution for me, even though it really was the best of both worlds. More time passed, and my desire to create a truly enjoyable to use aftershave at home remained unfulfilled. That is until more internet browsing led to the most important discovery on this journey: Fragrance Oils. Fragrance Oils are generally looked down upon by both perfume connoisseurs (Frag-Heads) and perfume making hobbyists. This is because they are often synthetic compounds and they are pre-blended. As a result they are often relegated only to the worlds of aromatherapy and soap or candle making, hence the reason it took me so long to find out about them. That said, there are several on-line vendors that sell fragrance oils blended specifically to duplicate famous brands, and to be used in small quantities directly on the skin or in cosmetic products. I tried several of these vendors, and found that SaveOnScents.com had by far the best selection and prices. While exploring their offerongs, I also found that they sold what’s called Perfumer’s Alcohol, which at the time I was totally unfamiliar with. No aftershave recipe that I found on-line ever mentioned the existence of such a product; however this alcohol proved to be the last essential piece of the puzzle. Getting back to the ”lab”, I began working on all different kinds of ratios between Perfumer’s Alcohol, distilled water, my favorite Fragrance Oils, and Menthol. I eventually found a suitable ratio between water and Alcohol that approximated the Alt-Innsburck feel. I also learned that each of the oils had a slightly different dissolvability potential in my base. For the maximum scent impact, which I preferred, I would just continue to slowly add oil until the mixture began to cloud. This usually worked out to about 4-6% of the original base volume. This may seem high based on what is typically called for in a "splash" product, but I believe the oils I use are much less concentrated than those typically used by big perfumers. As for the menthol, I just add it to taste, and generally need a lot less than you might think. To me, the end result of this process was quite staggering. I really feel like I didn’t just replicate Alt Innsbruck, but that I may have actually improved on it! The scents I’ve chosen are far less polarizing than the tobacco in that formula, and the feel is just as good. Regarding those scents, after many experiments, I decided to go with reproductions of Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver, which I branded Fresh Vetiver, and YSL’s Rive Gauche, which I branded American Blend, as my first products to market. So far, the vast majority of those who have tried these splashes have really enjoyed them, and I sell them both on www.FineAccoutrements.com. This information was hard won, so I hope you find it useful. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. Mr. Fine, Founder & Chief Chemist, Fine Accoutrements EDIT: If you order anything from SaveOnScents.com, please use my e-mail address (Mr.FineFineAccoutrements.com) in the referral section! Thanks.
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